Preserving tradition without becoming trapped by it — that is the philosophy guiding Francesco Arena, master baker from Messina and third-generation heir to a family that has turned bread into a story of identity, craftsmanship and contemporary thinking.
Over the years, Arena has become one of the leading voices in Italian baking thanks to his work with sourdough, short supply chains, ancient Sicilian grains and a deeply rooted connection to local territory. At his bakery, heritage and innovation coexist naturally, shaped by an ongoing commitment to quality and to the cultural value of bread itself.
We spoke with him about tradition, changing consumer habits and why the future of bread depends increasingly on the strength of the supply chain behind it.
Francesco, you come from a family of bakers and represent the third generation of a centuries-old craft. How important is it today to preserve the memory of bread while translating it into something contemporary?
«It’s essential. You should never lose sight of your roots, but at the same time everything has to respond to the needs of today’s customer. People are increasingly looking for healthier bread, made with sourdough, so in many ways we’re witnessing a return to origins.
What matters is understanding the entire supply chain, focusing on locally produced bread and helping people realise that bread is far more than an everyday item placed on the table. You need one eye on the past and the other firmly on the future».
Your work focuses heavily on ancient Sicilian grains, flour blends and long fermentation. Why do you think consumers are once again looking for more authentic bread?
«Because people are far more informed today than they were in the past. Consumers understand food better and make more conscious decisions. At the same time, bread consumption per person has fallen significantly compared to the 1980s and 1990s. So if people eat less bread, they naturally want better bread — something healthier, more flavourful and capable of carrying emotional value as well».
Traditional Messina baking and experimentation coexist in your bakery, from historic focaccia to newer creations. How do you balance respect for tradition with innovation?
«Experimentation has become a necessity. It means offering something new while continuing to strengthen the connection with the territory. Using locally grown produce means supporting farmers. Working with local seafood means supporting fishmongers. Choosing Sicilian meat means supporting butchers. That’s how the final product develops identity. It becomes something distinctive — almost a niche form of excellence».
Bread is often described as the simplest and most universal food in the world. What does it represent to you today, and what would you say to young people approaching this profession?
«To me, bread represents something almost sacred. It speaks of sharing, sacrifice and collective work. It’s a food that brings people together while carrying the effort and dedication of everyone involved in making it.
Getting young people interested in this profession isn’t always easy, but technology has helped enormously in improving schedules and working conditions. Young bakers today can feel actively involved in both production and innovation. And dialogue with younger generations is fundamental. They think differently, they see things clearly, and they often bring genuinely fresh ideas».
How important is the value of the supply chain in today’s world of bread?
«It’s absolutely central — probably the area we should be focusing on the most. Behind a well-made loaf there’s a farmer, a miller, a producer and finally the customer. Giving visibility back to that chain means restoring dignity to professions that were once treated as simple manual labour, when in reality they form an essential part of our food culture».
