«There are only two ways of doing things: do them well, or don’t do them at all».
That philosophy sits at the heart of Dario Pandolfo’s approach to fine dining. Since 2022, the Sicilian chef has been heading up the kitchen at Cala Luna, the fine dining restaurant inside Le Calette resort in Cefalù, where his cooking revolves around biodiversity, seasonality and a deep connection to local produce.
Elegant without ever feeling overworked, his cuisine is rooted in authenticity and shaped by a clear respect for ingredients and territory. Because for Pandolfo, fine dining isn’t simply about high-end cooking — it’s about creating an experience guests carry with them long after the evening is over.
Chef Pandolfo, what does fine dining actually mean to you?
«For me, it comes down to one thing: doing things properly. And that goes far beyond what’s on the plate. Fine dining is an experience — almost like going to the theatre — where every detail matters. The attention, the respect for the ingredient, the constant search for the best products, the desire to create emotion.
Everything has to work together from the moment a guest walks through the door to the final bite».
Is fine dining struggling right now, or simply going through a period of change?
«There’s no question the pressure is real. Running costs are extremely high. In a strong fine dining restaurant, the ratio between staff and guests can easily be one-to-one. Labour costs continue to rise, ingredients cost more than ever, and the aftermath of Covid has made staffing increasingly difficult. All of that inevitably creates a kind of natural selection within the sector.
Fine dining restaurants operate on a completely different structure compared to more traditional venues, and not everyone can sustain that model long term».
Where do you think fine dining is heading?
«It’s a life choice before it’s a profession. People who truly work in fine dining invest a huge part of themselves into it, not just professionally but personally as well. The restaurant becomes part of your life entirely. Personally, I still believe it’s worth it. What I see now is a return to truth and simplicity. Less excess, less decoration, less need to impress for the sake of it. The focus is shifting back to flavour, product and essence. Stripping things back rather than adding more».
Who do you consider the defining figures of Sicilian fine dining?
«For younger chefs like myself, people such as Ciccio Sultano and Pino Cuttaia were incredibly important figures. They opened doors and helped shape a vision of what Sicilian fine dining could become.
At the same time, Sicily remains a difficult place to build continuity. Seasonality is intense, and retaining talent is one of the biggest challenges we face. Young chefs often leave, which makes it hard to build stable brigades over time. But that’s also part of the challenge: continuing to evolve, staying curious and never losing that deep love for cooking».
And what does the future of fine dining in Sicily look like to you?
«Fine dining may be under pressure, but it’s alive — and it keeps evolving thanks to the people who have chosen it not only as a career, but as a passion. It’s a way of being. A lifestyle, really. And whether you’re in Cefalù, Canicattì or Bolzano, that mentality stays exactly the same».
